Tuesday, November 25, 2014

French Provincial Hutch Makeover

French Provincial Hutch Makeover - Over     

A couple years ago I picked up this hutch at a garage sale for $50. Score! I bought it to use in my daughters room, it would be perfect to display her dolls. I had dreams of her taking perfect care of her dolls, brushing their hair, dressing them in their little clothes and then lovingly displaying them in this beautiful hutch. She could pass the dolls and the hutch down to her daughter someday. And she would love and appreciate all her mother did for her. Sigh.....

Hutch purchased at a garage sale in 2004.

Reality hit - Sadly, the beautiful dolls soon became unappreciated dolls with matted hair and ripped clothes, carelessly thrown into the hutch. I soon hated looking at it when ever I walked into her room.

A couple years later there was a new need for the beautiful hutch. A little sweet little boy would soon join our family. A new use for the hutch! A place to put his little clothes, diapers, and baby things. After several trips to the store I realized that I couldn't afford the beautiful baskets that I had been dreaming of. 

A new plan was hatched: A Hutch Makeover - the glass had to go! 

Rubber strips holding in the beadboard
Replacing the glass with beadboard was really pretty easy. The glass was held in place with rubber strips. I carefully removed the glass and saved the rubber strips. I used the glass as a pattern for cutting the beadboard. I placed the glass over the top of the beadboard, making sure the lines would look good when it was in the hutch. Then I cut the beadboard with a jigsaw. I used the rubber strips to secure the beadboard in place.

Black Hutch with beadboard in place of the glass
This is how the hutch looked after it was all done. (above photo, please ignore the clutter) Over the last 10 years it has been used to hold many things, baby clothes, dvd's, books, toys. 

Notice the handles - you can't hardly see them! (I will talk about them more down the page a little)

This spring I finally got around to setting up my craft room. I pulled this dark hutch into my space. As it sat there it reminded me of something dark and dreary, something like you would see in a haunted house! As my room started to take shape, something had to be done to this beautiful hutch!

I think I coated this hutch on a whim at 11:00 at night, gotta love chalk paint - no prep needed! I used Annie Sloan Old White chalk paint. I usually do two coats on my furniture, a full strength coat and then a watered down coat. But I wanted the paint to look worn, with the dark kind of showing through.

You can see in the picture above that the paint isn't stark white, the black is slightly coming through. I sanded all the edges and the lines in the beadboard.

Accentuate the flaws
In the photo above you can see where the beadboard was damaged when it took a direct hit from a football thrown by a 16 year old teenage boy. Instead of trying to hide these little flaws, I sanded them down a little until the black paint showed through. I think it adds to the character of the piece and makes me think of that sweet 16 year old boy who felt so bad about hitting (and denting) his mother's hutch.

I painted right over the hinges, I didn't take the time to tape them off - there was black paint on the hinges from my carelessness the last time I painted it, or I probably would have. They look great! And blend in nicely.

The original Beautiful French Provincial Handles
Here are the beautiful handles that I mentioned above. In 2004 I had replaced these handles with silver drawer pulls and knobs that I purchased at Home Depot, the more modern silver knobs were a better fit for my little boy hutch. After we moved I found these beautiful handles in a bin in the garage. It was like striking gold! I was so excited and glad that they hadn't been discarded or taken to good will during the move.

Don't they look beautiful? And they really pop out against the white paint.
Broken knob
Another reason that I replaced the hardware was because the knob in the photo above is broken. Someday I might find a replacement, but for now - who cares!
Beautiful knobs

Drum Roll please.....

Here it is! The makeover - madeover!

What do you think? Beautiful! I love how this turned out. This is a piece of furniture that will always be treasured. It is my first true furniture transformation. I loved it back in 2004 and now in 2014 - I love it even more!

It now has a permanent home in my craft room. I will talk about what is hidden behind the doors in another post. Coming soon - my big craft room makeover reveal! I am just putting the finishing touches on it. Can't wait to share it with you all!

Thanks!!  Staci Wray

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Thursday, November 20, 2014

Before and After

Everyone likes a great before and after.  I know I do, so today I'm sharing my favorite one.  It's my kitchen. 

I’m sure you’ve all heard it before.  That kitchens and bathrooms are the two places in your house that add the most resale value, so if they are outdated then that is where you should spend your money.  With that in mind it should come as no surprise that this kitchen was #1 on my to do list when we bought our house three years ago.
This is a picture of the house before we bought it. For something that is supposed to be a selling point it is definitely lacking in shazaam!    The appliances are super old and those orange cabinets are a hot mess.  The walls are a fleshy tan; if you look on the left side of this picture they look pink.  Yeah, my whole house is that color.  Also, I don’t know if you can tell from the picture, but that “backsplash” is just a flat piece of Formica that has been glued directly onto the wall.  This whole kitchen needed a face lift, and that is exactly what it got.
If you’re interested in knowing more about the process and the products I used then read along.  If you’re only interested in what’s coming next on the blog then you can skip to the end.
Step 1: Decisions, decisions, decisions.  My house isn’t super light so I knew I didn’t want to darken the cabinets and make it more cave like so we opted for painting the cabinets white.  I wanted to find a white that contrasted with the countertops, so I wouldn’t feel like I needed new countertops when my cabinets were done.  I also needed one that I liked when the florescent light was on and when it was off since I knew we wouldn’t tackle the lighting situation for a while.  This may not sound difficult, but I probably tested about 15 colors.  In the end I bought a Rustoleum Cabinet Transformation Kit in white and loved the color.  I have no idea if they sell the kit anymore.  I know the kit claims you don’t have to sand or prime or whatever, but the kit is a dirty liar.  They may have received enough complaints that they decided to discontinue the product.  I knew what I was getting into so I wasn’t disappointed with the product at all.
Step 2: Grain Filler.  There was an advantage to trying so many colors on my cabinets.  I actually finished an entire cabinet with it’s base in one color and hated it.  After it was painted you could see the deep grain of the flimsy inside panel. Some people love that, but I HATED it!  I seriously agonized over this.  I wanted white kitchen cabinets so bad, but I didn’t want to do all that work for me to end up hating them anyway, so I stewed over it for about a year.  Yes, I said a year and I meant it.  Finally one day I took to the internet and googled how to eliminate wood grain and came across this product called wood grain filler.  It looks like I’m not the only one who hates the painted wood grain.  I ordered it and let it sit on my counter for a few months while I mentally prepared myself to start the project again.
51aBNl2zH4L When I got sick of looking at my hideous partially painted kitchen I decided to jump right in.  I started disassembling my kitchen.  This sucked because I found that a bunch of my cabinet doors were in fact broken.  I repaired them using wood glue and clamps and then filled the cracks with spackle.  I also filled the old hardware holes with spackle and had my hand dandy husband drill holes for the new hardware before painting.  After this was done I started using the grain filler on all of my cupboard doors.  I only did the fronts since I knew the backs wouldn’t bother me.  It says to squeegee the filler onto the cabinet doors.  I purchased a squeegee (that word is so weird right?) from an auto parts store that had a sponge side and a squeegee side.  I used the sponge to rub the filler into the wood grain and squeegeed the excess away.  I still had to sand it smooth after it dried and I used a flat head screw driver to scrape it out of places I didn’t want it.
Step 3: Caulking.  After your doors and drawers are all sanded it’s time for the caulk.  I used a quick dry paintable caulk to fill in the gaps in the doors.  Just on the inner panel where it meets the outer trim.  Then they were ready to be primed and painted, but before I tackled that I got started on the cabinet bases.
Step 4: Bead board.  I knew I wanted bead board around the base of the cabinets so I went and got some bead board and had it cut it down to size.  I used a jig saw to cut out the electrical socket and the corner cut out.  We used liquid nails and some brads to adhere it to the counter.  If you decide to ever do this you will find that your cabinetry may not be uniform.  On the side with the outlet the bottom was wider than the top, so we crapily carefully shaved some bead board off the bottom right hand side.  A similar thing happened on the back piece.  Nothing a little paintable caulk couldn’t fix.  I filled in the gaps with the caulk and also caulked all four sides of the bead board.  In the end I think it looks great and only I know where all the mistakes were made.  This part of the project only took a few hours and was less than $30 to complete.
Step 4: Painting the bases.  After the bead board was up it was time to paint the bases.  I didn’t bother to tape anything off since I knew I was going to paint the walls after I was done.  I cleaned them using the cleaner from the kit and that made it so the paint would adhere to them.  The bases are made out of some wood and some laminate and I didn’t have any adhesion problems at all with just the cleaning solution as my prep.  I used two coats of white paint and primer (a.k.a. the best paint EVER) from Sherwin Williams plus two coats of the kit paint.  Then two coats of polyurethane from the kit.  Yep, that’s SIX coats in all.  It took FOREVER!  Totally worth it!
Step 5: Painting the cabinet doors.  After the bases were done I went back to the cabinets.  I knew from my experimentation that I needed to keep the orange from coming through on the cabinet doors.  The bases didn’t have any issues with that because they were made out of difference materials.  After some research and more experimentation I decided to use Kilz oil based primer (two coats) followed by two coats of the kit paint.  The primer covered the orange beautifully and I don’t have any orange seeping through and uglying up my cabinets.  After the four coats I did two coats of polyurethane.
Step 6: Hang and hardware.  Once everything was dry I hung the cabinets and put the hardware on.  I bought my hardware off of ebay.  They have the best prices on stuff like that.

After everything was done I was able to step back and look at my pretty white cabinets.  I must say that I LOVE how it turned out.  It was totally worth all the hard work.  What do you think?  Did I add resale value?  Do you prefer the new kitchen over the old one?
Obviously the kitchen is still a work in progress.  You can see where I am currently looking for the new paint color for the walls and there are a bunch of little projects I need to do in there, but the cabinet transformation was by far the biggest project on my to do list.


Tuesday, November 18, 2014

Reinventing through Marriage

Hi, its Paula from flea.o.logy, here to share a favorite post from my own blog, pollyanna-reinvents.  

In the antiques business, where I have worked for almost 20 years, we often refer to furniture that has been pieced together from parts of other furniture as a marriage. Of course married pieces don't have the same value as original and intact antique furniture, but they often have a charm all of their own.

This is the story of a marriage. The back splash that was eventually wed to this turn of the century chest of drawers was a find at an auction, an orphan, if you will. It was probably off of a large English dry sink or wash stand, as the English used marble this way. The dresser is one that I found, and purchased at the end of the day, at my own flea market, flea.o.logy. The other dealer didn't want to drag it home, and hardwood furniture, this one is mahogany, is a lot to drag. When I gave into the reverse haggling, I got a great deal and a project!
This is the completed piece of furniture. It sold at Treasures Antiques for $179.99 and has a new home. A happy ending for an unwanted chest and its orphan companion, wouldn't you say?

In this picture you can see the lines of the chest and the splash. They both have curvy lines, but are void of other decoration.  They are also both bulky in formand to add to that the size was right, this is the main reason I put them together. The orphan splash waited at least five years for the right base to come along.
This is the chest of drawers as I purchased it. My husband had to cut a new top because the veneer had issues. The fact that it was painted didn't matter, since married pieces need to be united, usually, by paint.
Here is a close up of the splash in its original condition.

I love being able to salvage items that are essentially useless in their current condition. I like to use oil base paint on the reinventions, because it has a harder look, like old paint you see on vintage furniture, which was usually oil base. Oil base paint IS messy, and I have learned to just throw out my brushes after using them (which is OK because the little natural bristle brushes I like best are cheap) but the resulting finish is so much more durable.

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Thursday, November 6, 2014

Reclaimologists & Other Crafty Chicks Fall Extravaganza "We Make It Do" Sneak Peaks

I'm super excited about the Fall Extravaganza and thought I'd share with you some of the cool stuff that I'll have there this weekend!

Don't miss this show! It's going to be amazing! 
Here's the deets!

See ya there! 
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Tuesday, November 4, 2014

How to repair damaged veneer when refinishing furniture

Hi this is Tonya with Vintage Soul Furniture.   I have a passion for finding vintage, old and even very used furniture and making it pretty again.  Over the years I have come across many pieces of furniture that most people will just pass on or even worse throw away because there may be some damage or missing veneer.  After many many attempts at repairing these pieces that end up on the low end of the must have list.  These pieces have hope.  Next time you come across something that is just thrown by the wayside because of water damage or missing veneer.  Pull out that beautiful treasure and give it new life.  
Let me just say there are many ways to address this issue, but for me, I will share with you what I have found to be the best and most reliable way that I have used over and over.  
My "go to" for repairing missing and damaged veneer is this beauty right here:
I found this at Home Depot for around $8.00, but I have seen it at Lowes as well.  I am sure you can find it at any hardware store.  It is actually used to repair vehicles but works most excellent for projects like this.  I have to note that this also works well for forming pieces of detail molding that may be missing on a piece.  You do have to be quick though because it can set up pretty fast on you.  
So the first thing I decide is if I should remove the veneer or not. This little trick helps me with that decision. 

If you can't slide something under it,  I use a razor,  then I leave it alone and use that to know how deep to fill bondo later on.  If the area is easy to slide something under and you can actually lift the area, I lift it up until it will no longer lift to an area that is still adhering well to the piece.  Then I simply put my finger against that point and snap it off.  It's okay if it is a little jagged because you will sand that area slightly and then that is when the bondo is applied.  
Here is an image of the before damaged veneer:

 I use a paper plate to mix the bondo.  First you will want to scoop out some of the paste (gray) and then to the side add just a few dabs of the activator that comes with it (red).  Once you mix these two together, mix well and then get going because it will set up.  I usually use a paint scraper to lift and stir it together and then spread it out onto the area that I want to cover. 

Spread the bondo as even as you can.  I do like to go slightly above the veneer around the area so that when I sand it won't take off that veneer.  
At this point you can sand the bondo down to the level you need and make it smooth across.  You then are ready to paint or stain as you desire.  Just be aware that the bondo does take stain a little differently then the wood, so you may need to add more or adjust to match the color.  If I have a large area that I have to repair, I will usually say that piece just wants to be painted.  If you have a small area, then the variation looks pretty natural.  
One more thing.  Sometimes you may have a piece that has a few broken pieces from natural wear like I did on this dresser that I did. I love the look that this leaves when painted and dark waxed.  Just make sure you wax well to protect those areas from lifting.  

This buffet actually had quite a bit of water damage to the top that came from the flood in New Orleans.  I picked it up for practically nothing because at first appearance it looked like it was ready for the lumbar yard.  Now look how stunning she is!!!!  

I hope this post helps with your painting and finding jewels in the rough.  So maybe next time you see that hidden beauty that everyone else is passing by,  just grab it and smile and know that you have found the real "jewel" that can be given a new life.  

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